Open Studio 455: San Francisco Ballet Blog

Dana Genshaft

A Birthday Expedition

Monday, October 5th, 2009 | All Posts by Quinn Wharton, Perpetual Motion: SFB on Tour | No Comments

We arrived in Beijing on Sunday. It was a painless flight: two hours from wheels up to touch down. The air in Beijing was some of the strangest I have ever been in. It was around 4pm when we got in, so it was heading towards dusk, but there was no sunset. It seemed as if there was just cloud cover but there were no clouds: just a dense, smoggy murk that went from white, through shades of gray, to black. You could look directly at the sun and not hurt your eyes. Luckily the next morning proved that it wasn’t a constant state. The sun has been out quite a bit now. The gloom seems to set in just by the time dusk hits.

We took class and rehearsed a bit that Monday, and ran through most of the mixed-rep program in Beijing Ballet’s studio. When we got back to our hotel, it was time to head out for a big birthday party dinner. It was both Hansuke Yamamoto’s and Frances Chung’s birthdays that day, so it was time to celebrate. Personally, I am not a big fan of large parties. If they aren’t organized by a trained professional, things can quickly become disastrous. (Even trying to order dinner with five people is difficult, let alone figuring out the check.) So I was feeling particularly fearful when I stepped out of the elevator and saw roughly 30 people waiting in the lobby. This was going to be a nightmare, I thought.

I asked Dana [Genshaft] where we were going, since she and Liz [Miner] seemed to be in charge of organizing the outing. I found out we were headed to a tiny restaurant which, according to the concierge, was located in a maze of alleyways and impossible to find. Then there was the added obstacle of, not having a reservation. How do you show up at a restaurant with no reservation, 30 people, and expect to eat? It’s just not done! So with serious dread, we embarked: a 30-something group of cross-cultural dancers, hungry and noisy.

The group about to get on the subway

We took the subway, which was in itself quite an adventure. It was a simple process, but we still had to make sure everyone had a ticket and got on the right train.

Diego Cruz (surrounded by lots of other dancers) in the Beijing subway station

We got off the train in a dark, quiet area. Down each small alley we saw locals eating dinner together. Everyone stared at us as we passed, probably not used to seeing so many foreigners at once. We walked for about 15 minutes. I was losing hope (and growing hungrier) second by second. We stopped to get directions from some cooks hanging out at a fast food pick-up window.

Here are the guys that pointed us in the right direction!

Just a few minutes later, we were headed down a small broken-down alley. Looking at the entrance to the restaurant, my fears were confirmed: it was trashed, just a ramshackle of roofing, brick, and wood.

But once I stepped inside, I was shocked; the outside was just a facade. They had taken a small house, built around a courtyard, and redone the interior to make it a beautiful modern restaurant, akin to something you would see in San Francisco, like Beretta, or The Ramp.

The interior of the restaurant

Our good fortune continued when we met the owner. It turned out that they were having a slow night, so after some careful negotiation, we agreed to each pay 120 RMB (about $20 USD), and he would start bringing out food. So not only did we find a beautiful setting, but we got a chef-prepared banquet for everyone. It was easy and simple, so everyone settled in comfortably. I guess it was one of those fluke things where the universe comes together to support what you’re doing.

The girls pose for a picture in the restaurant

I honestly have no idea what we ate, but all of it was good and there was plenty of it! Apparently it was all Malaysian food. We finished off the evening at the restaurant’s sister bar, called BED, and taking that over as well. I was lucky enough to get a chance to commandeer their sound system for a while and DJ’d for the group for about an hour.

Walking to BED

Frances and I ended up being the last patrons there, since we got stuck talking to the production crew of Cats that was just leaving town the next day. It was late by the time we left; lucky for us cabs were still plentiful and we were able to make our way home. It turned out to be one of the best birthday parties I’ve been to in a long time. And it taught me not to doubt a situation so much; it just creates a lot of groundless worry that taints the air.

Tags: China Tour, Dana Genshaft, Diego Cruz, Frances Chung, Liz Miner, Quinn Wharton