Beijing Journal III

Monday, October 5th, 2009 | All Posts by Matt Naughtin, Perpetual Motion: SFB on Tour | 1 Comment

We’re finished with our performances in Beijing, and the Company has two free days to do some sightseeing and socializing. Sunday: the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace. Monday: the Great Wall, the Ming Tombs, and a reception at the American Embassy.

A pagoda in the forest, as photographed by SF Ballet dancer Quinn Wharton.

It’s fun to be traveling with a young and ebullient bunch of natural-born performers. The dancers hammed it up at the Forbidden City, striking ballet poses and doing lifts in front of the palaces while delighted Chinese people snapped pictures or had their photos taken with them. People were out in multitudes for the holiday weekend, and while the crowds were amazingly dense, I never felt uncomfortable or constricted. People were happy and relaxed, and we received many smiles and friendly stares (Chinese people aren’t shy about staring at you—they often gathered to watch us haggle with salespeople at the markets.)

I want to thank Frances JZ Fu who posted comments on this blog. You were right—it was me in the rather loud green shirt at Swan Lake. Your comments about Chinese audiences were enlightening, and I followed your advice about places to see in Shanghai.

A few impressions from my three weeks in China:

The Chinese people I have met have been gracious, hospitable, and kind.
They welcome strangers warmly, and are quite honest in commercial transactions (after some vigorous negotiation).
Children and the elderly are cherished.
Pistachios… I love pistachio nuts and they are superb here.
Bargaining (or haggling) is a lively art in China, and can rise to operatic levels of dramatic intensity.
If you want to get somewhere walking or driving, honk your horn (if you’re in a car) and gently but firmly wiggle your way in. There is no such thing as “right of way”.
The concept “sugar-free” does not exist yet in China. The only restaurant I found that offered Diet Coke on the menu was out of it.
Much of the signage, especially in Shanghai, includes somewhat whimsical English translations—sometimes deserving of a smile and a photo.

It looks like Quinn found some of these amusing, also!

I’m getting a second suitcase today to lug home all my loot, and will be heading to the airport tomorrow for the long flight home. I’ve had a grand time here, and have developed a genuine affection for the Chinese people. I hope these journal entries have been enjoyable and a bit informative.

Zai Jenn, and See You Soon!

Tags: China Tour

A Birthday Expedition

Monday, October 5th, 2009 | All Posts by Quinn Wharton, Perpetual Motion: SFB on Tour | No Comments

We arrived in Beijing on Sunday. It was a painless flight: two hours from wheels up to touch down. The air in Beijing was some of the strangest I have ever been in. It was around 4pm when we got in, so it was heading towards dusk, but there was no sunset. It seemed as if there was just cloud cover but there were no clouds: just a dense, smoggy murk that went from white, through shades of gray, to black. You could look directly at the sun and not hurt your eyes. Luckily the next morning proved that it wasn’t a constant state. The sun has been out quite a bit now. The gloom seems to set in just by the time dusk hits.

We took class and rehearsed a bit that Monday, and ran through most of the mixed-rep program in Beijing Ballet’s studio. When we got back to our hotel, it was time to head out for a big birthday party dinner. It was both Hansuke Yamamoto’s and Frances Chung’s birthdays that day, so it was time to celebrate. Personally, I am not a big fan of large parties. If they aren’t organized by a trained professional, things can quickly become disastrous. (Even trying to order dinner with five people is difficult, let alone figuring out the check.) So I was feeling particularly fearful when I stepped out of the elevator and saw roughly 30 people waiting in the lobby. This was going to be a nightmare, I thought.

I asked Dana [Genshaft] where we were going, since she and Liz [Miner] seemed to be in charge of organizing the outing. I found out we were headed to a tiny restaurant which, according to the concierge, was located in a maze of alleyways and impossible to find. Then there was the added obstacle of, not having a reservation. How do you show up at a restaurant with no reservation, 30 people, and expect to eat? It’s just not done! So with serious dread, we embarked: a 30-something group of cross-cultural dancers, hungry and noisy.

The group about to get on the subway

We took the subway, which was in itself quite an adventure. It was a simple process, but we still had to make sure everyone had a ticket and got on the right train.

Diego Cruz (surrounded by lots of other dancers) in the Beijing subway station

We got off the train in a dark, quiet area. Down each small alley we saw locals eating dinner together. Everyone stared at us as we passed, probably not used to seeing so many foreigners at once. We walked for about 15 minutes. I was losing hope (and growing hungrier) second by second. We stopped to get directions from some cooks hanging out at a fast food pick-up window.

Here are the guys that pointed us in the right direction!

Just a few minutes later, we were headed down a small broken-down alley. Looking at the entrance to the restaurant, my fears were confirmed: it was trashed, just a ramshackle of roofing, brick, and wood.

But once I stepped inside, I was shocked; the outside was just a facade. They had taken a small house, built around a courtyard, and redone the interior to make it a beautiful modern restaurant, akin to something you would see in San Francisco, like Beretta, or The Ramp.

The interior of the restaurant

Our good fortune continued when we met the owner. It turned out that they were having a slow night, so after some careful negotiation, we agreed to each pay 120 RMB (about $20 USD), and he would start bringing out food. So not only did we find a beautiful setting, but we got a chef-prepared banquet for everyone. It was easy and simple, so everyone settled in comfortably. I guess it was one of those fluke things where the universe comes together to support what you’re doing.

The girls pose for a picture in the restaurant

I honestly have no idea what we ate, but all of it was good and there was plenty of it! Apparently it was all Malaysian food. We finished off the evening at the restaurant’s sister bar, called BED, and taking that over as well. I was lucky enough to get a chance to commandeer their sound system for a while and DJ’d for the group for about an hour.

Walking to BED

Frances and I ended up being the last patrons there, since we got stuck talking to the production crew of Cats that was just leaving town the next day. It was late by the time we left; lucky for us cabs were still plentiful and we were able to make our way home. It turned out to be one of the best birthday parties I’ve been to in a long time. And it taught me not to doubt a situation so much; it just creates a lot of groundless worry that taints the air.

Tags: China Tour, Dana Genshaft, Diego Cruz, Frances Chung, Liz Miner, Quinn Wharton

People, Performances, and Piroshki

Friday, October 2nd, 2009 | All Posts by Lily Rogers, Perpetual Motion: SFB on Tour | No Comments

Friday October 2nd, Beijing

5:48pm

I have been in Beijing for about five days now, and have been so busy adjusting, rehearsing, sightseeing and sleeping, I have had trouble finding time to blog. Sorry for the long absence, there is much to catch up on.

Today is the day after China’s National Day, and though the celebrating will continue for another three days, the biggest spectacle has already happened. Yesterday the city basically shut down everywhere but Tian’anmen Square. To ensure that the parade and the fireworks were absolutely perfect, many precautions were taken. Most roads were closed, shops and restaurants were closed, airplanes shot rain-seeding pellets into the clouds to make it rain the night before, consequently ensuring a bright sunny day for the 1st. The airport was closed for three hours and our stage managers weren’t allowed to use radio communication. Most people weren’t allowed to see the parade in person; it is mostly for government officials and diplomats. Though it would have been amazing to see in person, what I did see of it on CCTV9 (China’s National News and Entertaiment broadcasting agency) was unlike anything I have witnessed before. There were hundreds of tanks rolling right next to the Forbidden City, thousands of people in perfect formations smiling, marching, and dancing their way down Dong Chang’an Avenue. The streets were empty around the hotel and theater, and it must have been because people were either in the parade or watching it at home on their TV’s.

We found this bus for an acrobatic company participating in the National Day celebrations. I think Ludmila would fit right in, don't you?

Last night was big not just for China. SF Ballet opened its run in Beijing!!! We performed our mixed-rep program for the last time in China. It was a fun show to do and the audience, many of them UN and Embassy workers, was very enthusiastic. It was nice to hear screaming and clapping again! I thought everyone danced beautifully and the only shame was the fact that we had to use a recording for the show.

Tonight we open with the first of our final two shows of Swan Lake in China. Yuan Yuan will dance tonight and Maria Kochetkova will dance tomorrow. This tour has been about flexibility and compromise, but the shows do go on and it has really been an experience to remember. I’m trying to look at the bright side and remember what a great opportunity this is, and it certainly reminds me of how great we have things back in San Francisco.

This is from when we were leaving Shanghai and waiting for instructions.

I have also been doing a little sightseeing, but I’ll be able to do more on Sunday and Monday (our free days). So far I have been to the OX Street Mosque and a Buddhist college down near the Summer Palace. It was a wonderful experience and totally devoid of tourists. In our three hours of exploring, we only saw one other tourist group, which was very friendly! I also had some of the best food I’ve had in China here in Beijing. I can’t believe I’m saying this, but it was Russian food! I was at a really inexpensive Russian restaurant close to the hotel, and it was the most hearty and delicious food ever. A group of about 15 of us went, so I was able to try lots of different dishes. Who thought you’d have to go to China to get a perfect Piroshki?

We definitely make time for sightseeing. Ludmila and Kim look tiny next to this lion!

So far the coolest thing that has happened to me in China happened last Tuesday. There was a welcome reception thrown for the company at the St. Regis Hotel. It was just beautiful. The food was delicious; I finally got to try Peking Duck which was as mouthwatering as I hoped it would be. But even more exciting than the duck was getting to meet the newly appointed ambassador. I was fortunate enough to be introduced to Jon Huntsman Jr., who was appointed to his new position by President Obama just a month ago. He and his wife couldn’t have been nicer, or more interested in ballet! The second youngest of their seven children was with them and she was the picture of perfect grace and poise. Did I mention she was seven? My parents would have been ecstatic if I had been even remotely that well-behaved at seven.

SFB dancers make friends everywhere they go!

Well, I have to head back to the theater for the show, but more later! We go to the Great Wall on Monday, so I will have much to report on.

Tags: China Tour, Ludmila Campos

An American Girl in Beijing

Thursday, October 1st, 2009 | All Posts by Jordan Hammond, Perpetual Motion: SFB on Tour | 1 Comment

Sitting here in the exquisite lobby of the hotel in Beijing, I’ve finally found time to be able to truly reflect on all I’ve experienced the past few weeks while I’ve been on tour with the Company in China. I feel like everyday I wake up and think “Wow, I’m clear across the world, in China!” (I thought it would hit me when I was on the plane. But I guess I still can’t believe I’m here). I’ve been trying to not only keep a journal of the trip, but also take a bunch of pictures that I can look back on to remember everything!

At the entrance to the Antique Market!

One of my favorite memories in Shanghai was when we took a shopping trip to the Antique Market. The Antique Market was the exact picture of what I had imagined China to be like in my head; very rural and authentic, unlike the downtown atmosphere of Shanghai. The market was where I truly felt like I was in a completely different country.

A gorgeous painting of Yuan Yuan in the hallway of her school.

Another thing I enjoyed in Shanghai was being able to take class at the Shanghai Dance School where Yuan Yuan Tan trained when she was younger. Not only was it a nice first class to get my body moving after the long flight, but I also thought it was cool to look into the studios and see how the kids in Shanghai train in comparison to how we train at SFBS.

Apprentice Myles Thatcher and me at the welcome reception in Beijing at the St. Regis

Since we’ve been here in Beijing, my favorite memory so far has been our trip to the Silk Market. It was nothing like I had ever experienced before. Immediately when you go inside and walk down the aisle filled with booths, the people call out to you saying “Lady, would you like jeans? How about shoes for you, beautiful girl? I will give you the best price for this hat!” Sometimes they’ll even grab your hand and try to show you what they have to offer, whipping out their calculators to begin the bargaining process! It was so much fun, and all the bargaining tricks that I picked up in Shanghai definitely came in handy at this huge five-story mall filled with everything you could imagine.

Myles doing a shoulder sit with a girl selling us jeans at the Silk Market. She said she’d give us a good deal if we did ballet for her!

Well I’m off to watch the amazing mixed-repertory show tonight! The mixed-rep show in Shanghai was phenomenal. I was able to watch from backstage, which is always incredible because you can see every detail that goes into every movement. It makes me not only appreciate the work of the dancers, but the minds of the choreographers as well. So, needless to say, I’m looking forward to watching it again here in Beijing and being able to perform in Swan Lake later this week!

The four SF Ballet School girls on tour getting coffee before the mixed-rep show in Shanghai

Tags: China Tour, Myles Thatcher, Yuan Yuan Tan